hi, today we will try to make teclast x98 pro thermal mod and add full-sized usb it has overheating problems while doing some specific tasks but we would try to fix that we would also add a full-sized usb port this tablet already has a place where we could solder it, so, not a hard modification to make in order to do all of this we need usb type a female itself some other things like silicone thermal pads copper plates that we would place above some elements like the processor some heatsink to isolate wires that we would solder to usb port
wires that we would use to solder usb and some other tools like rulers, cutters, soldering iron, flat screw drivers etc and you have to be ready to perform such operation we have to open the case before we can begin modding it is the hardest part. the only wrong move and you tablet screen is spoiled. there are digitizers available on aliexpress for teclast x98pro :) you better have protective screen to be applied to tablet before you begin it would help to protect the screen while trying to reach for the inner part of the tablet i would start to open the case using some thin plastic tools like guitar pickups i would begin from plastic part of the cover and move to the side opposite to buttons
i have to take my guitar pickups and begin the process it is the hardest part of the job. let's begin i've managed to open the case. it was really hard to do, but i've managed you have to be very careful and don;t even try to pull the screen, just try to make back cover to slip off now we look at the cpu protective case. we have to open this one. we have to carefully lift it up with some small flat screw dirver tool now we'll see what's inside you have to find a tiny holes on the sides of this case and gently pull it up
this cover is attached to the mainboard with a piece of adhesive now, we see that chinese people are not always doing their job good factiry applied silicone is not touching the parts it should actually touch and protect from overheating but we would fix this i would zoom a bit to bring it closer i already see some strange prints on the surface of cpu. but i'll clean this up later clean, remove factory silicone and apply yours want to mention that not only i removed old silicone, but also removing this adhesive on the upper part of the cpu case because i think that it reflects the heat back to cpu
moreove, it would make more room for us to apply new silicone i prefer removing it anyway. no matter what it is intended for looking at cpu case again. checking whether everything is ok now i would clean some more and start to apply new silicone and copper i would try to repeat the approach of the author of tech tablets website i would use 2x2cm and 1mm thick copper plate to cover my cpu and i would use 1mm thick silicone adhesives on ram, emmc and gpu we can see a resistor at the left upper side of cpu tha we should not touch
therefore, it is better to cut off this corner from our copper pad now i am cutting it... later i'll check how it fits here it is. i've cleaned it well before use and i'd clead cpu again everything should be clean before we apply thermal paste due to the fact that i am using thermal paste instead of thermal glue, i have to fix copper plate on the cpu somehow so, i've took old silicone cpu cover and cut central part. this would be used as an adhesive for our copper plate this would protect copper plate from moving around perhaps, i shouln't have to explain why it should stay fixed in place
i am doing it right now and moving further now, i am applying thermal paste to cpu i bought some expensive one, but the seller promised that it won't dry up quickly i begin with small drop of past over cpu and try to spread it equally over the surface but if your paste is more liquid - it would spread itself under its weight my paste lacks liquidity, therefore i have to spread it myself i would be checking several times how good is a contact between my copper plate and paste on the cpu method - remove it several times and look at the copper plate. if the paste is spread equally over it - everything is fine if not - just add some paste on cpu again
i've gone through 3 iterations until iwas satisfied with the result paste should cover and fill the gap between cpu and copper plate at last everything is fine now we have to press down our copper plate a bit in order to stick it to its place i would also apply some paste on the top part of the copper plate in order to let the heat pass to cpu case emmc, ram and gpu would be covered with silicone heat pads those elements don't have such overheating, therefore should fill good under silicone pads now i would run the first "cpu case closing" test i want to remind you that silicone pads usually covered with protective layers on both sides, don't forget to remove those
i am trying to cover the case now... it should do it with no obstacles. if you fell that something wrong - check again i feel that something is wrong and removing the case yes, gpu double pads are too thick for the cover. i'll remove 1 of those case didn't want to close at the right side. so, i found the reason i'll try to close it again now, i am placing another good adhesive on the top of the case and right above cpu in order to pass the heat on the back alluminum case of the tablet but i would also add some silicone pads on the sides so that the most part of the case would pass heat i've decided to open the case again in order to check how good is the contact between copper plate and cpu protection case
and found that there are still some gaps. i had to apply some more paste over my copper plate it means that there is more room than 1mm from the beginning. but the only copper i have is 1mm thick. paste would do the rest i thought that applying adhesive underneath my main cpu silicone would be good.... but later i've realized that tablet back cover would not be able to fit because there is a plastic frame all over tablet back cover so there is no way to use something close to the boarder so, i've decided to apply my silicone on the both sides of the cpu finally, everything is done about the thermal mod cpu should be cooled well now together with emmc, ram and gpu
and all the heat should be transferred right to the back cover now we can proceed to usb mod the only place where it is convenient to place it - is left upper part this part is close enough to soldering place and doesn't have any other elements it can interfere with we would be able to place its wire securely and apply epoxy to fix usb in place and there are no other places to put it in :) this is hard part of the wark as well. because we have to cut aluminum back cover with special tools like dremel and do it carefully back cover should be cut so that usb won't stop it from closing tightly
the hole should be as large as the thinnest oart of tour usb port but also we should leave those tiny metal shoulders on the usb port outside. it would help usb port from falling inside the case when applying pressure so, there is a lot of work and thinking to do. if you don't feel like doing it - don't do. soldering is easy. placing usb is hard just be careful with wi-fi antenna while soldering. it passes right beside usb soldering pads but physical usb installation is time consuming. think twice i already cut my back plate and got it ready for usb it wasn't easy to calculate but i've managed and now i am removing tiny plastic shoulder on the screen part on out table right in the place where i'd put my usb
this shoulder would not let usb port lay flat on the surface you can remove it easily with the knife. the plastic is thin there so, now i have a flat place to put my usb into but you have to check twice where you would place your usb before cutting anything and you better check everything before cutting back cover i already cut back cover and just checking how it fits i used dremel to cut aluminum. and i've made a hole that fits usb perfectly and usb metal shoulders are outside of the tablet it would help usb to stay fixed when we apply pressure to it
epoxy would hold usb from moving when we pull something from it finally, i've managed to finish everything apart from soldering but i had to cut back plate so, that it became thinner on the flat part. this would let usb lay even deeper... now i am checking how much cable i'd need and i'd try to solder it back to the cover - it was a hard task really. not only you have to calculate everything, but you have to be very precise and careful. i used dremel to cut - it is a perfect tool for such tasks. and i don't think that using some mechanical metal cutter would do the work and the cover should be cut very much indeed. side part as well as curved part - everything should be cut off in order usb to fit so that it would not prevent back cover from closing tightly if the cover case would have been not so curved - the task could've been much easier. but it is curved...
therefore, you have to cut off side and curved part. the hole is large and looks a bit ugly. i've managed to solder usb to motherboard everything looks fine. only 4 wires to solder i would not eplain the process. it is a common sense better to solder usb port to cables first and than move to soldering cables to motherboard don't be nervouse, do everything quick and don't apply excessive heat to the motherboard don't forget not to touch wi-fi antenna wire now you can see how usb looks like
looks very good on the front and little ugly at the back. but this was the only way as i thought. its shoulders are outside and holding it from falling inside the tablet back over closed perfectly but you can see this ugly part at the back it is just because we have to make a flat surface on the back cover to let usb in now, let's look at the results usb is working perfectly with the mouse, keyboard and flash drive. didn't check it with 1tb drive yet tests. let's look as some tests you can see my resluts prior to thermal mode. this is passmark overall test result at 100% cpu and external power
this is the cpu temp while doing this test prior to thermal mode. as you can see - cpu reached 86 degrees and was trittling and slowing down now we'll look at results after thermal mod new results are better. better score and the cpu temp was not more than 72 degrees the difference is 14 degrees before|after the mod and no thermal throttle. this is a win results no more than 72 degrees under hard load so, the maximum temp jumped down from 86 to 72 no throttling what so ever
moreover, my benchmark result is a bit higher than the result of the author of tech tablets my new result is 786.4 which is better than my first result 774 and my 786,4 is higher that tech tablets editor's result his thermal mod is doing a great job but seems that my approach is a bit better but he had a maximum temp of 68 degrees in comparison to my 72 degrees. so, 4 degrees difference but he got lower benchmark score so, either my mod is doing better job or he was running something in the background that prevented him from higher score anyway, it is much better than previous 86 degrees even at some mere tasks
so, the mod is perfectly done wishing you luck!!!
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